⚡ The Quick Scoop
The Vibe: A rollercoaster of intense desert storms, terrifying navigation errors, and the ultimate reward of a peaceful, hidden waterfall oasis.
Must See: The contrasting views from the serene pools at the top of the falls, down to the stunning alcove at the bottom.
Shauna's Rating: 💎💎💎💎💎 (An epic, character-building adventure!)
Life can be a rollercoaster of intense storms followed by moments of beautiful serenity. I have written extensively about the 16 amazing adventures in Escalante, but the hike to Upper Calf Creek Falls is a story that requires its own dedicated chapter.
This trail was a massive turning point in my confidence as an outdoor adventurer. In fact, it was an experience that easily could have flipped the opposite way, leaving me terrified to ever brave a solo hike again. It is a story of making rookie mistakes, feeling sheer panic on the slickrock, and finally, learning the hard lessons that allow me to hike confidently today.
👇 Choose Your Path
Hell's Backbone & The Metal Death Box
This area is known for extreme weather, and we got a taste of it firsthand. On one of our trips, we were fishing at Barker Lake when our phones suddenly erupted with flash flood warnings. We waited it out, and after 4:00 PM, we decided to head out chasing the sun.
We arrived at Hell's Backbone Bridge under beautiful blue skies. This incredible bridge is built over a huge, gorgeous canyon that pictures simply don't do justice. The drive itself is spectacular—it connects Boulder to Escalante via a well-maintained dirt road that winds across a high, narrow ridge. (Just don't speed around the blind corners!)
However, it didn't take long to hear the low rumble of distant thunder. Within minutes, we were completely engulfed in an intense storm, with lightning cracking all around us on the exposed ridge.
⚡ Irony in the Storm
We quickly decided it was much safer to hunker down in our truck than to try and drive out of it. The hail was absolutely deafening. It was so incredibly loud that Todd actually dug out his noise-canceling headphones and begged me to put some on too!
We had a week's worth of food stored in the back of ORVilla, and I remember frantically trying to decide if it was worth risking the crawl to the back, navigating over all our gear, just in case we got stuck there. We spent the whole time yelling "What-If" game plans over the roaring storm. What if the bridge washes out? What if lightning hits the truck?!
I was literally curled up in a ball on my seat, absolutely terrified to touch the doors or the floorboards. We were even trying to figure out if rescuers would be electrocuted if they touched the door handle to save us! In our freaked-out minds, we made everything so much more dramatic than it needed to be. But Todd's fear was incredibly valid—when he was a kid hanging out at a park in the rain, lightning struck so close to him that it threw him flat on his back and left him temporarily unable to move. So sitting in a metal box on a high ridge during an electrical storm was his literal worst nightmare.
As the hail continued to pound the roof (totally ruining our paint job!), my husband dryly remarked on the sheer irony of our situation: "We are sitting in a metal death box, in Death Box Hollow Wilderness, on Hell's Backbone Ridge, in a lightning hail storm. Can it get any crazier than that?"
🌲 The Parable of Resilience
While exploring Hell's Backbone Canyon, we found a solitary tree growing right out of the solid rock in a crazy, hard location. It had flourished, but you could see how its roots had to really search deep for life-giving water.
There have been many studies on what makes people successful, and a leading theory points to one crucial factor: Resilience. It is the capacity to recover quickly from difficulties; it is pure toughness.
May each of us be like this awesome tree—not giving up. Don't dwell on what you lack. Instead, dig deep down into your soul, find that source of goodness, and just try from today on to be the best version of yourself.
Soaring Over Hell's Backbone
It was far too windy for us to fly our drone, but my friend TJackSurvival captured this breathtaking view of the bridge and the massive canyon below!
The Rookie Mistake & The Rockslide
The real crazy story, however, happened on my very first solo attempt to find Upper Calf Creek Falls. I had heard from a local that this upper section was far better and less crowded than the famous Lower falls. So, I headed out as a newbie hiker, determined to brave a solo adventure and trusting the trail markers (cairns) to guide my way.
When I parked, I saw my first red flag: Absolutely no cell service.
I did really well navigating the steep descent down to the falls. The bottom of the canyon is incredible—you can stand deep inside the massive rock alcoves right at the base of the waterfall, completely surrounded by towering cliffs. Best of all, you don't have to hike in soggy shoes like you do at Lower Calf Creek!
Lost on the White Slickrock
The terrifying part started on my return trip. I was following what I thought were trail cairns in the stream, but I soon found myself completely lost. I wasn't too worried at first because I knew the general direction: I just had to head UP the massive white slickrock. But the terrifying problem with slickrock is that you can't just scan the landscape and see a dirt trail. It is just one massive, endless rock face.
I tried weaving back and forth, assuming I would eventually cross the trail. That didn't work. Frustrated, I decided to just head straight up the steep white mountain and deal with finding the road once I reached the top.
But the trail exists for a reason—it guides you through the path of least resistance. My chosen route was entirely too steep. I tried to heave myself up a steep ledge on that massive white slickrock, grabbing onto a rock to give myself a little extra support. I pulled, and it wasn't solid.
Suddenly, the rock gave way, sending a bunch of loose debris tumbling down right toward me. I fell backward and started sliding. Looking down that steep, smooth rock face with absolutely nothing in the way to stop a fall was terrifying. I honestly could have rolled hundreds of feet down the mountain.
When I finally stopped sliding, the only sound I could hear was my own heartbeat pounding deafeningly in my ears. It had been an incredibly hot day, and I was drenched in sweat. As I lay there trying to catch my breath, my shaking hands were pressed flat against the baking hot white slickrock—in Escalante, that rock literally feels like an oven. I closed my eyes and just started praying, begging for help out of this ridiculous situation.
Even when I finally managed to crest the top of the slickrock, my nightmare wasn't over. I hadn't dropped a GPS pin for my car! I ended up walking a long way in the completely wrong direction before realizing my mistake and having to trudge all the way back. By the time I finally found my car, I was done. I scratched every single other exploration off the trip itinerary right then and there. I just wanted to be home, safe in my bed.
The Parable of the Cairns
Before I found the car, when I was still lost on the rock, I pulled out my phone. I knew I didn't have service, and I hadn't downloaded my map, but I did have a small external GPS device that I used to help me create Google Earth Spheres. I noticed that even though the map itself wasn't loading, my little blue dot *was* showing up, and I could faintly see the line of the main road!
Using that tiny glimmer of hope, I carefully plotted a safe route up the rock. I made it out without any more crazy incidents, but that terrifying experience taught me a profound lesson.
🕊️ The Fake Cairn Betrayal
I spent years after this trip thinking I was just a dumb, amateur hiker who somehow missed an obvious trail marker. It wasn't until I returned years later that I realized those "trail markers" in the stream were actually just cute little rock towers built by kids playing in the water!
That tiny distraction had led me WAY off course, WAY fast. At first, I was like, "Seriously people, why did you do that and ruin my hiking self-esteem?!" But honestly, I couldn't stay mad for long. The survival skills, the navigation lessons, and the sheer grit I learned from that terrifying evening have gotten me through countless challenging adventures since.
The Triumphant Return
The lessons I learned that day changed how I hike forever. Now, I always download both Google Maps and Gaia GPS when I head into the backcountry. And if there is even a slight chance the trail isn't perfectly clear, I hit "Record Track" the second I step out of the car so I can safely back my way out.
🤫 A Secret Safely Kept
Do you think I told Todd about my near-death rockslide experience? Absolutely not! When I got home that first day, he asked how my solo trip went, and I just smiled and said, "Oh, so lovely and amazing!" LOL.
It wasn't until we returned together on this second trip that I casually slipped in, "Hey, we need to be extra careful watching the cairns on the way back... I got a little lost the first time I was here."
Honestly, I didn't even need to play it cool. Todd had been battling a severe case of Plantar Fasciitis—it was so bad he had recently been on crutches. This steep hike was incredibly tough for him to conquer, so he was entirely focused on pushing through his own pain and didn't even notice my hyper-vigilance about the trail markers!
But for me, returning to this trail was a night-and-day difference. With a few years of harder hikes under my belt, armed with my downloaded Gaia maps, and immediately hitting "Record" on my GPS, the fear was completely gone. I could just focus on enjoying the journey and helping Todd overcome the brutal hike back up out of the canyon. It is amazing how much being prepared transforms a terrifying challenge into a deeply enjoyable journey.
.jpg)
A cute memory from the trail!
💦 The Hidden Top Pools
On my first trip, I had completely missed the hidden side trail that takes you to the very top of the falls. Finding it the second time was amazing! It is incredibly beautiful up there, but honestly, it gives me a heart attack.
I see people actually swimming in those top pools, and I just think, "Do you not realize you are on slippery slickrock right at the edge of a 100-foot drop?!" I loved sitting up there, but I will not do more than dip my hands and feet in! The water feels amazingly refreshing after baking in the Escalante heat.
Shauna's Boulder Bucket List
If you are exploring the Escalante and Boulder area, you absolutely cannot miss these local gems to refuel and escape the intense desert heat!
- Burr Trail Grill: One of my absolute favorite things about coming to this area is eating here! They have the most unique and amazing burgers that I literally dream about. The Reuben, the Thai Burger, and the Greek Burger are all phenomenal.
- Saturday Morning Market: If you are in Boulder on a Saturday morning, it is crucial to go to the local market. If you are lucky, you can snag some of their incredible Walnut Olive artisan bread!
- Escape the Heat: If you are exhausted and overheating in the desert sun, head for higher ground! There are lakes ALL over Boulder Mountain. Some are ridiculously hard to get to, but others are a nice, easy drive. In just a short 40-minute drive, you can go from sun exhaustion to enjoying alpine snow! It always blows me away how shockingly diverse the temperatures can be here. Kings Pasture Reservoir and Row Lakes are both quite easy to get to.
Transport Yourself: 360° VR Tours
Experience the wild beauty of Escalante for yourself! Click and drag the video and street view below to look around the storms and the serenity of the falls.
From the Storm to the Oasis (360° VR)
The Trail to Upper Calf Creek
Look around the steep slickrock trail that leads down into the canyon.
The Explorer's Guide
🗺️ Adventure at a Glance
- 🏞️ Location: Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah
- 🥾 Activity: Steep slickrock hiking & route finding
- 📏 Distance: Approx 1.2 miles each way
- ⏳ Time Needed: 1.5 - 2.5 hours
- 🏅 Shauna's Rating: 💎💎💎💎💎 (5/5 Diamonds!)
Critical Safety Hints for Your Visit
- The Unmarked Turnoff: The turnoff is about 10 miles outside Boulder near Hell's Backbone road. There is no sign on the main road! Every time I use Google Maps, it tells me I have arrived while I am still driving on the main road. You have to watch carefully for a dirt side road, drive down it for a bit, and suddenly the parking lot and trail sign will appear.
- Follow the Cairns: Pay very close attention to the stacked rocks. If you cannot see the next cairn, stop and backtrack until you find the last one you saw. Watch out for fake ones near the water!
- DOWNLOAD YOUR MAPS: Do not be like Rookie Shauna! Download Gaia GPS and Google Maps for offline use, and hit "Record" when you leave the parking lot.
The Desert Scrapbook
A collection of my favorite moments from our wild and wonderful trips to Upper Calf Creek Falls.
✨ Ask the Desert Guide
Curious about offline mapping, slickrock hiking, or the difference between Upper and Lower Calf Creek? Ask our AI Guide!
The Calm After the Storm
This adventure was a powerful mix of thrilling storms, intense fear, and ultimate serene beauty. It demanded respect for nature's power and forced me to become a more confident, prepared adventurer. Upper Calf Creek Falls is a true Escalante gem that rewards those willing to navigate its tricky path. I hope this guide helps you find it safely, and that you enjoy the peace waiting at the bottom!
Sending Love and Positive Vibes,
Shauna @ VRGetaway
.jpg');%20background-position:%20center%20center;%20background-size:%20cover;%20border-radius:%2012px;%20color:%20#888888;%20display:%20flex;%20height:%20350px;%20justify-content:%20center;%20margin:%2020px%200px;%20width:%20100%;)
0 Comments
I would love to hear your thoughts about this area or this post. Feel free to leave a comment here.